What is your s4 stttings

Sorry, but i dont know the s4 and dont have a lambda-control, but the most i read from the users here
is, that they took the lambda-set on under 5%.

The time of filling the boiler is not really a kind of matter. you have to tell us, about
how many wood you fill in.
It is also of interest, at which temperature your boiler loading pump starts - of course, which temperature your Woodburner is working with after a few minutes ( of course about 30-40minutes).

The measurements or configs you are given, arent looking to bad, without lamba i think.

If the return temp is only config, please tell, how the really temp looks like. Hope you have a control/display for it.

greets Burn (not english burn)

If anybody want to write him something, i could try to translate.

Wenn Ihm jemand etwas schreiben möchte, würde ich mich anbieten/versuchen, es zu übersetzen.

Pump start at 67C is allright.
boiler temp 83C is allright in 40minutes, a bit high, can you speed up your pump?
return 63C is OK

You write very small Informations.

Wenn you burn on 6% lambda, how was your flue gas working temp?

I think it reaches the 190C earlier with the lower lambda settings, and then your
ventilator goes down, and your burning process goes bad.

Is it a problem with burning time 7 hours? Other users, always want to get long burning times.

Where are you from?

I think, if you work with lambda 6%, you should try higher "working flue gas temperature".
Your ventilator should not speed down too much. You must play with different setpoints.
(200....220).
Your spreading from 63° to 83° isn´t the best. Try to reach a spreading of about 10°.
The return of 63° is absolutly the minimum.
If your boilertemp is lower, your AGT wouldn´t reach that highness.

The pump must speed at maxium all the time in process, when KT is reached. I think it works
allready like that.

Hoped somebody with a S4 too, could tell something.

When your return is 63° and KT 83°, how high is the temperature in the puffer on top?

Zitat

What you mean by that "Your spreading from 63° to 83° isn´t the best. Try to reach a spreading of about 10°". Too set the return to 73?

If the return is 63°, how hot is it going into the puffer? There you should have a spreading of 10°.
Thats what i mean.

Pump must works fully in the main process, thats better. I see you got an mixing valve in for your return. That had to hold the return temperature, not the pump speed.

All i say is only what i guess. I dont know your S4. Sorry

HEJ

thanx for these pics. firsttime i got wondering about the state of my s4 - i see on your pics flake offs on the stone, also ist is ripped - think it is ok.

so - i have testet a lot of thinks - finally i changed back to defaults. i took the setting for little damp (<8%).
next i changed the settings for buffercharge pump - i think it is much to small if the pump is not loading faster as ~30/40% - i took 65% minimum on bufferpump - so the S4 is required to fire up - an not go down to little flame, slow down exhaust ventilator etc etc etc.

SO i get a good temperature of ~80° - STABLE - exhaust temperature round 190° - lambda co of ~7% (got testet with 6% - works really fine).

MY Problems why i changed settings and testet are - teer, sooting, soot depostits - like this --> http://goo.gl/CDxGi --> http://goo.gl/42fKO

Pics are from 2011 - this year it is a little bit better, but also not fine. I compared my optics with my friends fgh 3000 - think it is compareable with S3, old generation. FGH 3000 has a major difference - the bufferpump isn´t dynamicly - so the heating is fully challenged - there is NO teer/soot etc. - and, he burned the same wood as i from same source.

be free to check out my external gallery (not really sorted yet)--> http://goo.gl/euRW5 - perhaps you see someting interessting

greets

ps: greets from carinthia (klagenfurt)

Zitat von mare

Return pump and valve
[Blockierte Grafik: http://shrani.si/f/D/Qk/3X2mQWxk/1/dsc0371.jpg]

again I

did i see right - you dont installed a "RLA" - "return increase" - shipped with the heating ?
or I do not see the picture

That Question you only can get answered by one, who use the same HV.

I do not understand your Question all the time. You want to earn energy faster.
You want to earn same Energy in a lower time? I understand?
First Question , why ?
It is a matter of Interesst, to earn the most Energy, you can get, with a capacity of wood and
not the time, you can earn it. Only if the time of earning the energy, is not enough
to reach yor energy needed level.

As (low) sample. I got a very old HV. I got a 15-18kW version. The only differnence between
the higher kW version is, a another injection(Düse). But i dont want it.

You dont had to look at your boiler(Puffr) temperatur, you had to look, at what you earn
about a pint of wood.

Try to install a Energymasscounter. Than you see it.

HI

i think, fröling is not a stupid company. i think it is like the cars - you can buy the one and same engine in a car - one have 130hp and the other one with same engine has 160hp - only think is another programm in ecu. (you see it if you buy a chiptuning, both cars will get 190hp with tuning )

SO i think, you can tune your tiny 15kw fröling to get better performance, but i DONT think you can only switch in configuration to 28kw and your 15kw works with 28kw. i think, fröling denyed this wit a policy in software.

also i dont understand, what should be the difference. fröling technican said to me on the compromissioning on the configpass - the flow engine in exhaust could be upgradet from 85% max power to 95% max power - this should be able to get more "power" he said, but he said, 85% and 15kw is enough for me.

SO, independent these thinks - i really dont know, why we should need more power - MY s4 with 15kw is not really workin on full power - i think you know about "KST"-on german software - it is the "throttle" of the S4. SO i dont need a car with 300hp, only to use 10% of throttle.
For me - you can see my chart, i signed it green --> http://goo.gl/UGDLl - this is one heating; on beginning sure - 100%, so if the exhusttemperature is up the "kst" is going down - so you can see, for ME i dont really need 15 kw.

If you got a Problem and your fröling dosnt heat preformancly like everytime 100% kst and so - i think you got the wrong fröling

the only think i would do is to tune the fröling in like "efficiency factor" - so i dont would need more power - i would need more efficienty (like car you need not so much petrol..) - so I checked out tunig like o2 content or so - i would like to get MORE hot water with same pice of wood

i hope this is not to bad english

greets

PS: i think, since the fröling is control the waterpump for buffer dynamicly you dont really have performanceproblems. a friedn hav an old fröling fhg turbo xxx - there is not really a dynamicly control - bufferpump turns FULL - so i saw, the fröling takes a looooong time, if the "kessel" is getting the 80° temperature. our fröling is lowering the bufferpump to get fast the 80° and then hold this... so - if you got problems you could check the config for bufferpump - i think there is on factoryconfig a minimum of 35% (for me to low, i took it to >50%, my fröling is controlling extremly low - it go REALLY silent - aircontrol and all other (kst) is going down to a minimum - it would burn a LONG time (think this would be good) - but, if the kessel is not burning on a little power i would get really "ruß" - tar pollution.. in my fröling. so i got more minimum the kessel will burn with a minimum power every time...